. It was a first visit for the whole family to the city that floats on water – a city which, for me, had been a collage of clichéd postcard images and corny ice-cream ads. Yet, in reality, there is little that is clichéd about Venice, and catching a glimpse

’re visiting at lunchtime, stop at Staromestska, a small café that serves roast chicken and apple strudel with ice-cream. Alternatively, on a summer evening, sit on the roof terrace of Hotel U Prince where you can enjoy twilight views beyond the clock

shoes nestle next to the handmade marionettes and driftwood mirrors. It’s worth a peep for a blast of nostalgia – or for those forgotten essentials. Next door is a trendy café of rabbit-warren proportions that sells organic chocolate, ice cream, apple