ceilings and dark-wood furniture. We were greeted by our villa host, Suzy, who had stocked our fridge with tomatoes plucked from her garden and delicious home-made pesto, as well as all the essentials – bread, milk, pasta – plus a selection of gelati from

During February 6-28 Gran Canaria goes carnival-mad with parades and all-night street parties with partygoers from one to 100 years old – and plenty of music and dancing. The theme for 2009 is Pirates, so pack accordingly and join the half million people who turn