black-and-white Commerson’s Dolphins – like baby Shamus – swim alongside, was already huge. Grace braved a 30-minute queue in the afternoon, but she whizzed so speedily through the 300 feet of clear tubes that she didn’t even see the dolphins

and seafront splendour, soon fell into disrepair and became better known for its depressing boarding houses, decrepit architectural gems and rowdy pier arcades. Today, while the seaside town retains its fan club of hen weekenders, the city has also become

. It was a first visit for the whole family to the city that floats on water – a city which, for me, had been a collage of clichéd postcard images and corny ice-cream ads. Yet, in reality, there is little that is clichéd about Venice, and catching a glimpse