Mews Of Mayfair restaurant, London: review
A traditional Sunday lunch is the order of the day at this homely restaurant, tucked behind Oxford Street
PROVENANCE IS KING when it comes to the food we eat and, whilst knowing the name of the heffer who arrives on your plate might be taking it a tad too far for most, knowing that meat and fish has been responsibly and sustainably sourced is a distinct bonus. It’s a fact that Mews of Mayfair are rightly proud of, so their menu features an annotated map of the UK advising me that the oysters come from Colchester Oyster Fishery, the corn fed chicken hails from Johnson & Swarbrick of Lancashire, and the goat’s cheese is from Innes Dairy in Staffordshire. It’s a
nice touch that, in the current agitated climate of food scares and scandals, offers diners a welcome assurance of quality.
Tucked away in a historic courtyard, with the fragrant Elemis Spa as a near neighbour, Mews of Mayfair exudes a quintessentially Britishness: the converted mews house, with its narrow rickety wooden staircase to the upstairs restaurant, dates back to the 18th Century. Inside, the decor is clean and classy, with dark oak tables and leather banquettes, and kitsch little floral displays in metal watering cans or china jars that used to hold marmalade. Immediately Joe spied the tantalising row of glass jars filled with olde-shoppe sweeties (Rhubard & Custard, Black Jacks…), but I managed to convince him to wait until our departure before stuffing his pockets. After the warming butternut squash soup and goats cheese fritters for starters (Joe didn’t fancy anything), we all opted for the Traditional Sunday Roast (Longhorn Beef from Lake District Farmers) with all the trimmings, which included one large Yorkshire pudding each (my children can easily devour three of good Aunt Bessie’s apiece), along with a mix of vegetables and a modest jug of gravy that we had to ask the waiter to refill for us twice. When it came to dessert, Joe couldn’t choose between the sorbets and the Lemon Pancakes (and the waiter wasn’t falling for his appealing puppy eyes to suggest he might have both). Instead, Joe convinced me that I should go for the pancakes while he had a mix of sorbets and ice-cream. I did manage one mouthful of citrussy, zingy pancake before the rest were wolfed down by Joe. And with a pocket full of fizzy colas, we departed happy.
Mews of Mayfair, 10 Lancashire Court, London W1S 1EY, tel: 020 7518 9388. Open Midday–3pm; 6–11:30pm Bond Street, Oxford Circus
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