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TRENDS REPORT FOR A/W 09

Back to Winter - From the catwalks of Pitti Bimbo in Florence next winterís key trends.


Posted: 15 May 2009
by Linda McLean

Despite the economic downturn the atmosphere at Pitti Bimbo for next winters children's collections was buzzing with more catwalk presentations than ever before.

Trends were comparable to those that bubbled under last year with emphasis again on plaid checks, metallic fabrics and faux and real fur items in abundance.

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Classic tartan patterns and big bold plaids were seen in nearly every collection often as trouser suits with slim trousers or as wool cape collared jackets or puffed skirts for girls and classic lumberjack shirts for the boys. When not checked wool fabrics are usually in tweed or houndstooth with hot red a favourite colourway.

The caped jacket was a favourite shape and was strong in tweed too, in particular at Little Paul and Jo, Elsey, Pinko, Lui Jo and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada all had variations on this theme.

Caps and berets are the favourite headgear items seen in checks, whilst argyle pattern knits and long socks tie the looks together.

Vibrant Colour

Not just hot pink! It was good to see a variety of strong colour block shades coming through for winter, in particular with shiny nylon padded jackets from the casual jeans masters such as Diesel and Replay who also had some great coloured leather jackets too.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada always has bright colour but it looks quite right for now and the favourite colour bright red was everywhere closely followed by bottle green and purple.

This was nicely balanced by the use of grey, again ubiquitous throughout the stronger trend led collections such as Alberta Ferretti, Little Marc Jacobs, Caramel and Anne Valerie Hash.

Shiny puffy glitter

Metallic finishes first came to prominence a year ago but all that glitters obviously is gold in terms of sales as there were many shiny padded jackets and jerkins, metallic leather boots and pumps and glittery sequin trims and finishes for party frocks.

Usually teamed with frothy net layered skirts for girls in silver, old gold and copper, or jeans and sweats and striped knits for duller grey styles for the boys.

Seen at Monnalisa, Miss Blumarine, Calvin Klein, Replay and Miss Grant.

Simonetta had some fantastic 60ís metallic brocade structured fabrics with matching handbags and footwear.

Notables

Out on their own but commended for application was the Russian inspired collection from Nolita Pocket, there were many trapper hats and fur accessories at the show this year and other labels in the 70ís peasant groove with strong collections were Antic Batik, and Essential Girl.

Roberto Cavalli introduced a Baby Safari leopard collection for Aprica buggys and while leopard isnít really our thing we did adore a puffed structured black rose print dress from the Angels collection.

Outside of Pitti there were two new entries to the world of childrens designer fashion we feel we also need to mention, in Paris Jean Paul Gaultier launched a capsule childrens collection featuring slim black tailored suits and a cool trenchcoat and in New York, Yohji Yamamotoís Y3 label featured groups of children in Sports influenced casuals in black, yellow, wine and bottle green.

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Day by Day Report from Pitti Bimbo, June 2009
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